Explore the hidden history of Jesselton, the original gateway to North Borneo. From the fires of Gaya Island to the Hakka farms of Signal Hill, this guide explores the heritage behind the modern city. Discover how the setting of the novel The Eurasians preserves the soul of North Borneo.
Jesselton: The Resilient Soul of North Borneo
Most modern maps point to Kota Kinabalu. However, for those who value heritage, the name Jesselton carries a weight that the modern title lacks. The official name change occurred on September 30, 1967. To many, this transition remains a point of deep nostalgia.
In my historical-romance thriller, The Eurasians, I made a conscious choice. I refused to use the modern names. I insisted on calling the land North Borneo and the capital Jesselton. To do otherwise would strip the story of its historical soul.
The Man Behind the Name: Sir Charles Jessel
Who was Jessel? The city takes its name from Sir Charles James Jessel. He served as the Vice-Chairman of the British North Borneo Chartered Company (BNBCC).
Interestingly, Sir Charles was a financier, not an explorer. He likely never set foot in the town that bore his name. Yet, his influence shaped the administrative backbone of the region. The British established Jesselton in 1899 to replace an older, ill-fated settlement.
The Fire at Gaya Island
In the late 1800s, Jesselton was not the main hub. The British administrative center sat on Pulau Gaya, a nearby island. Today, tourists flock there for luxury resorts and diving. In 1897, the scene was far more violent.
A rebel leader named Mat Salleh led a fierce attack on the settlement. His group burnt the British post to the ground. This destruction forced the British to move to the mainland. They chose a narrow strip of land protected by a mountain range. That site became Jesselton.
The Changing Face of Signal Hill
History often leaves scars on the land. During British rule, Signal Hill looked nothing like it does today. Photographs from the era show a barren landscape. Massive tree cutting for timber and construction stripped the hills around the Atkinson Clock Tower.
Nature eventually reclaimed the slope. Today, Signal Hill serves as a vital “green lung.” A lush secondary forest covers the hillside. However, new threats loom. Modern development pressure is high. The present government often favors expansion over conservation. We risk losing this beautiful hillside forest to the bulldozer once again.
The Atkinson Clock Tower
This tower stands as the oldest standing structure in Jesselton. Built in 1905, this all-wood landmark honors Francis George Atkinson, the first District Officer of Jesselton. He tragically died of “Borneo Fever” at the young age of 28.
For decades, the tower served a vital role for sailors. Its steady light acted as a primary navigation beacon for ships entering the harbor. Since it survived the heavy bombings of World War II, it remains a rare symbol of pre-war North Borneo heritage.
However, the tower’s setting has changed dramatically. To breathe new life into the site, authorities recently launched an ambitious upgrade. They constructed a modern pedestrian walkway and a scenic hanging bridge that connects the tower directly to the Signal Hill Observation Pavilion.
Instead of viewing the tower from the busy street below, visitors now walk through the canopy of the secondary forest. This elevated path offers a “bird’s eye view” of the clock face and the city skyline.
Furthermore, this connection links the tower to the Signal Hill Eco-Farm and the surrounding heritage trails. By merging colonial architecture with nature-based tourism, the city creates a seamless experience for the “History Man” and casual tourists alike.
This bridge literally spans the gap between Jesselton’s past and its green future.
The Hakka Legacy: The Vegetable Basket
Behind Signal Hill lay the “vegetable basket” of the town. This area supplied fresh produce to early residents. The Hakka Chinese farmers made this possible. They followed the British to North Borneo, bringing their legendary work ethic.
These farmers transformed the rugged terrain into productive gardens. They ensured the townfolk never went hungry. Their legacy lives on in the pockets of green still found within the urban sprawl.
Savoring the Sights and Sounds
Visitors to Jesselton today have many choices. The city is a culinary haven. You can find exclusive seafood restaurants in the city center or mid-tier gems around Asia City.
For a true Jesselton experience, visit the hawker stalls along Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens. Here, you eat by the sea. You can smell the salt of the South China Sea. You can watch the sun set over Manukan and Gaya Island while enjoying the catch of the day.
Modern Echoes of the Farm
The old Hakka vegetable farms have evolved. The Signal Hill Eco-Farm now occupies that space. They serve organic products and home-cooked meals. You can walk through the restaurant and observe fish ponds directly beneath your feet. It is a rare connection to the town’s agricultural roots.
Nearby, the Green Cottage Cafe offers a different rhythm. It is a sanctuary for birdwatchers. During the right season, the air hangs heavy with the scent of Durian, Tarap, and Jackfruit. It is a place where nature and nostalgia meet.
Mangroves and Coastal Wildlife
Nature lovers should visit the Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre. This protected mangrove forest is essential for Borneo’s native birds. You can walk along the boardwalks—the wooden walkways that cut through the thick mangroves.
Watch the mud closely. You might see endangered reptiles or mudskippers. Be careful near the nearby 9-hole golf course. Poisonous snakes occasionally sun themselves near the short par-3 holes. This is the wild edge of Jesselton.
The Gateway to The Eurasians
In my book, The Eurasians, Jesselton is more than a setting. It is the gateway to the entire narrative. The story begins in 1964 during the Indonesian-Malaysian Confrontation. It follows the life of Aaron Johnson, an RAF pilot. He chose to stay in North Borneo and marry a local girl.
The story spans decades, ending with the 1997 Asian Financial Crisis. A romantic tension fuels the plot when a young lawyer, William Stewart, falls in love with Aaron’s daughter. Their lives mirror the shifts of the city itself—resilient, complex, and deeply rooted in the soil of North Borneo.
The Eurasians is available now as a hardcover copy for those who wish to walk the streets of Jesselton through my eyes.